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The lungi (Bengali: লুঙ্গি [ˈluŋgi]) is a garment worn around the waist in India, Bangladesh, Sri Lanka, and Myanmar (formerly Burma). While its origin is found in North Indian culture, it is worn by diverse communities across Southern Asia. It is particularly popular in regions where the heat and humidity create an unpleasant climate for trousers.
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Design
Unlike dhotis, which are linear like sheets, lungis are sewn into a tube shape like a skirt. However, cheaper "open" lungis are available in identical dimensions without being sewn into a tube shape. The standard adult lungi is 115cm in height and 200cm in length, when open. Children's dhotis are available in approximately 2/3rd of this size. It is normally woven from cotton in a variety of designs and colors. Silk lungis are available for ceremonial purposes such as weddings. The most common styles are either solid-colored or plaid, reflecting the relative ease and cost-effectiveness of producing these patterns on a power loom. Blue is particularly popular, since it fades to pleasant tones in contrast to other colors. Regardless of the design or color, lungis are often lined at the top and bottom with a black/white stripe containing reinforced weaving to prevent fraying.
Usage
Depending on local tradition, lungis can be worn by men and/or women. They are tied or fastened in various ways, and can be used in different cultural activities, ranging from normal daily life to elaborate wedding ceremonies. For daily purposes, a simple "double twist" knot is most popular, where two points in the upper edge of lungi are brought together and twisted around twice, with the ends tucked in at the waist. However, it is also common for wearers to simply tie a double "pretzel knot" from 2 points on the upper border, which produces a more secure knot. The lungi's length can also be adjusted, for example, by tucking in the lungi at the waist to make it resemble a short skirt.
Regional variations
Bangladesh and West Bengal
The lungi is the most commonly-seen dress of Bangladeshi men, although it is not normally worn on formal occasions. In Bangladesh, lungis are worn by most men on a daily basis, although elaborately-designed cotton, batik, or silk lungis are also often presented as wedding gifts to the groom. In Bangladesh, the lungi industry is concentrated in Khulna, and leading brands include Alauddin Textile Mills (ATM), Smart, and Alphabet Textiles. Bengali women do not traditionally wear lungis, although non-Bengali tribal women do wear similar garments in some parts of southeastern Bangladesh. In neighboring West Bengal, the lungi is fast replacing the dhoti as the most popular men's garment for everyday wear. Some Bengali men avoid wearing the lungi, considering it to be too informal or inappropriate, despite the fact that it is both ubiquitous and comfortable. Despite the fact that the usage of lungi is declining slowly, it is still the most common male attire in rural Bangladesh.
Myanmar
In Myanmar, the lungi is called longyi in Burmese. For men, the lungi is known as a paso, and for women, it is known as a htamain. Lungis of different fabrics, including cotton and silk, are worn for informal and formal occasions.
Yemen
In Yemen, the garment is called a Ma'awiis and is worn by males of all ages.
Somalia
In Somalia, the Hoosgunti is a fixture amongst males. It however is associated more with elder males who wear it with a kuufi baraawe, but is commonly worn by many Somalis while relaxing at home. The traditional colour is plain white, but because of Asian influence and location of Somalia on the Spice Route, colourful Asian-style lunghis have been introduced to the country.